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CARING FOR YOUR GEMS
You wouldn't dream of wearing
your favorite suede jacket in the rain, or laundering
your "dry clean only" wool suit with
your jeans. Why wouldn't you give your gemstone
jewelry as much consideration? Just because gems
have survived in the ground for millions of years
doesn't make them invincible to the elements of
everyday wear on the Earth's surface.
Sure, you can't bear to
remove that iridescent opal ring your husband
gave you for your second anniversary; you'd feel
naked without it. But consider the consequences
if you were to accidentally knock your hand against
a wall while running for a train or spray it with
bug killer while doing some gardening. Opals are
softer and more fragile than most gems and subject
to damage if exposed to impacts or chemicals.
In fact, all gemstones have some care considerations
you should know about.
SAFE GUARDING WITH THESE
HINTS
- Remove all jewelry before
engaging in such activities as sports, housework
or yard work where jewelry is prone to impacts
and/or chemicals.
- Never remove jewelry
by pulling on the gemstone. Pulling the stone
exposes it to perspiration, skin oil and dirt,
as well as the possibility it will become loose
in its setting.
- Check for loose gems
and clasps before each wear.
- Have a jeweler restring
your pearl and bead necklaces at least every
two years, annually if you wear them frequently.
- Never store jewelry in
piles to avoid gems and metals abrading each
other or chains entangling. Wrap each piece
in velvet, paper or silk; or separate in sections
of a jewelry box or fabric pouch.
HARD AS A ROCK?
One of the biggest factors
to consider in the care of precious gems and metals
is their hardness, which reflects their durability.
To measure hardness, the jewelry industry uses
the Mohs Scale. This gem-trade standard, conceived
by Friedrich Mohs in the early 1800s, measures
the ability of a gem or mineral to resist abrasion
damage. Diamond is placed as the hardest substance
at 10, while talc is considered the softest at
1. Rubies and sapphires rate at 9, topaz and spinel
at 8 and quartz material (such as amethyst and
citrine) at 7.
Most of the objects you
and your jewelry come in contact with are either
quartz-based or near quartz's hardness. If your
gems are harder than Mohs 7, they will not be
scratched; if they are softer, they could get
damaged. And, believe it or not, the precious
metals your gems are set in (platinum, gold and
silver) fall below Mohs 4.5.
Rings and bracelets are
most vulnerable to the realities of daily wear.
But earrings and necklaces, even brooches, are
also subject to chemical exposure, particularly
if worn while cosmetics, perfume and hairspray
are applied.
In addition to regarding
how you wear and store your gemstone jewelry,
you should consider how you clean it. Choose chemicals,
brushes and techniques for the softest, most vulnerable
gems in a piece. Although the precious metals
used in jewelry are softer than most gems, it
does not mean that cleaners tailored to a specific
metal will not damage gems of a higher Mohs. For
example, silver polish works fine for sterling
alone, but can ruin porous gems (like opal, pearl,
coral, lapis, turquoise, and amber) set in it.
Ammonia is a particular threat to fragile gems.
If you must use strong commercial products, and
you can't bear to remove that ring, make sure
you are wearing protective gloves (which you should
do anyway, to protect your skin!).
The best way to clean most
of your gem-set jewelry is to use a mild soapy
solution in warm water, a soft brush, and a soft
cloth to pat dry.
POPULAR GEMS AND CLEANING
TIPS
| Alexandrite
(Mohs 8.5) |
Clean
with soapy water, alcohol or commercial cleaning
solutions. An ultrasonic cleaner or steamer
is safe. |
| Amber
(Mohs 2-2.5) |
Use
only warm soapy water, no brush. Pat dry.
Do not use mechanical cleaners; avoid abrasives,
chemicals and heat. |
| Aquamarine
(Mohs 7.5-8) |
Warm
soapy water and a soft brush is your best
bet.Mechanical cleaners are safe, but not
on heavily included gems. Avoid most chemicals,
heat and excessive cleaning. |
| Coral
(Mohs 3.5-4) |
Gently
wipe clean with a soft, cool, damp cloth.
Do not use a brush or mechanical cleaners.
Avoid abrasives, chemicals and heat. |
| Diamond
(Mohs 10) |
Mechanical
cleaners are safe, unless a stone has fractures
or is fracture-filled. If that is the case,
avoid heat and chemicals.Ammonia-based cleaners
or mild solvents are fine. If using warm soapy
water, rinse well and pat dry to avoid residue.
Vodka is said to produce sparkling results. |
| Emerald
(Mohs 7.5-8) |
Clean
with a soft, damp cloth, warm water and a
soft brush. Do not use mechanical cleaners.
Avoid chemicals and heat that dissolve oils
used during cutting and processing to conceal
inclusions. Although emerald is harder than
quartz, its crystal structure makes it brittle.
Have a jeweler re-oil your emerald every few
years. Avoid impacts. |
| Garnet
(Mohs 7-7.5) |
Warm
soapy water and a soft brush is perfect. An
ultrasonic cleaner is safe for most garnets,
except andradite (the best known variety is
demantoid). Do not use a steamer. |
| Jade
(Mohs 6.5-7) |
Warm
soapy water will do the trick. Mechanical
cleaners are safe. Avoid contact with warm
acids. |
| Lapis
Lazuli (Mohs 5-6) |
Use
warm soapy water. Do not scrub or soak. Wipe
with a soft cloth. Do not use mechanical cleaners
and avoid chemicals. |
| Opal
(Mohs 5-6.5) |
Use
a soft dry or damp cloth. Do not soak. Do
not use mechanical cleaners. Avoid impacts,
dry conditions, heat and chemicals. |
| Pearls
(Mohs 2.5-4.5) |
Wipe
clean after each use with a soft, dry or damp
cloth. Mild soapy water is fine. No mechanical
cleaners, heat or chemicals. |
| Peridot
(Mohs 6.5-7) |
Warm
soapy water and a soft brush is your best
bet. Do not use an ultrasonic cleaner or steamer.
Avoid contact with acids. |
| Quartz
(amethyst, citrine & ametrine) (Mohs 7) |
Warm
soapy water is perfect. An ultrasonic cleaner
is usually safe, but a steamer is risky. Avoid
acids, intense heat, and prolonged bright
light. |
| Ruby
& Sapphire (Mohs 9) |
Clean
with soapy water or commercial solvent and
brush. Mechanical cleaners are safe, except
for heavily included gems. |
| Spinel
(Mohs 8) |
Give
it the kind of care you would ruby and sapphire. |
| Tanzanite
(Mohs 6-7) |
Give
it the same kind of care you would a peridot. |
| Topaz
(Mohs 8) |
Give
it the same care you would an emerald. Although
it is hard, it cleaves. A sudden temperature
change or impact can cause a break. |
| Tourmaline
(Mohs 7-7.5) |
Warm
soapy water and a soft brush is your best
bet. Do not use mechanical cleaners. |
| Turquoise
(Mohs 5-6) |
Wipe
with a soft damp cloth and dry. Do not soak
or use mechanical cleaners. Avoid chemicals.
Silver cleaners will cause discoloration. |
BASICS
OF GEMS | AQUAMARINES
| EMERALD
| GARNET
| PERIDOT
| RUBY
| TANZANITE
| SAPPHIRE
| TOURMALINE
| TURQUOISE
| UNDERSTANDING
GEMS | CARING
FOR YOUR GEMS | COLOR
ALTERNATIVES | BIRTHSTONES
AND OTHER LISTS
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