|
Baguette
shape
A rectangular-shaped diamond with rows of step-like
facets. If the baguettes two long sides
taper inward, it is called a Tapered baguette.
Bar setting
Similar to the channel setting, it is a circular
band of diamonds that holds each stone in by a
long thin bar, shared between two stones.
Barion cut
This has a traditional step-cut crown and a modified
brilliant-cut pavilion. A square barion cut diamond
has 61 facets, excluding the culet.
Bearding or girdle fringes
The outermost portion of the diamond, called the
girdle, can develop small cracks that resemble
whiskers during the polishing process. The bearding
can sometimes be removed, if not too dramatic,
with slight re-polishing, and if the weight allows.
Bezel setting
With a bezel setting, a rim holds the stone and
completely surrounds the gem. Bezels can have
straight edges, scalloped edges, or can be molded
into any shape to accommodate the stone.
Blemishes
The term blemish is used when the diamond has
scratches or marks on the external area of the
stone.
Brilliance
Liveliness, or sparkle in a stone when light is
reflected from the surface and from the total
internal reflection of light.
Brilliant-cut
Brilliant cuts are scientifically found to reflect
the most light from within the stone, and often
are considered to have the most brilliance of
all cuts. A round brilliant-cut diamond has 58
facets. Other brilliant cuts include the heart,
oval, marquise and pear shaped.
Carat
Refers to the measure of weight of a diamond.
One carat is equivalent to 200 milligrams. One
carat can also be divided into 100 points.
A .75-carat diamond is the same as a 75-point
or 3/4-carat diamond.
Certification (or Diamond
Grading Reports)
There are many recognized gemological laboratories
that can grade your diamond for a fee.
Channel setting
Used most frequently for wedding and anniversary
bands, a channel setting will set the stones right
next to each other with no metal separating them.
Clarity
A diamond often has natural imperfections, commonly
referred to as "natures fingerprints."
These inclusions contribute to a diamonds
identifying characteristics. Inclusions are found
within the diamond. Inclusions can be white, black,
colorless, or even red or green. Most inclusions
are undetectable by the human eye, and can only
be seen with 10X magnification. Inclusions are
ranked on a scale of perfection called clarity.
The grades of clarity vary from F (Flawless) and
(Internally Flawless) through to I (Included).
Clarity scale I can be seen by the human eye without
magnification. The position of these birthmarks
can affect the value of the diamond.
Cluster setting
This setting surrounds a larger center stone with
several smaller stones. It is designed to create
a beautiful larger ring from many smaller stones.
Color
Diamonds are graded on a color scale established
by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).
The scale ranges from D (colorless) to Z. Fancy
colors refer to diamonds with hues like pink,
blue, green, yellow and very rarely red. Fancy
colors are not included in this color scale and
are considered extremely rare.
Crown
This is the upper portion or the top of a diamond.
Culet
The bottom point of the diamond. It may be polished
in some stones. Please note that sometimes the
cutter may choose to make the culet a surface
instead of a point.
Cushion cut
A mixed-cut diamond shaped like a square pillow.
Cut
Cut refers to the angles and proportions a skilled
craftsman creates in transforming a rough diamond
into a polished diamond. Based on scientific formulas,
a well-cut diamond will internally reflect light
from one mirror-like facet to another and disperse
and reflect it through the top of the stone. This
results in a display of brilliance and fire. Diamonds
that are cut too deep or too shallow lose or leak
light through the side or bottom, resulting in
less brilliance and ultimately value.
Cutting style
Cutting styles are different than diamond shapes.
The simplest and most common way to explain cutting
style is to categorize it into the following three
basic types: Step-cut, Brilliant-cut and Mixed-cut.
Deep cut
Cut refers to the angles and proportions a skilled
craftsman creates in transforming a rough diamond
into a finished diamond. When a diamond is cut
too deep, it will lose or leak light through the
side or bottom. This results in less brilliance
and value.
Diamond
A diamond is the hardest known natural substance.
It is crystallized carbon. Diamonds are mined
in their rough form and then cut and polished
to reveal their brilliance.
Diamond Grading Reports
There are many recognized gemological laboratories
that can grade your diamond for a fee.
Dispersion
When light enters a diamond it reflects off the
facets and the angles cut into the stone. This
distribution of light is known as dispersion,
or the display of the spectral colors.
Emerald shape
A rectangular or square-shaped cut-cornered diamond.
Facets
These are tiny surfaces polished onto a rough
diamond that give a finished diamond its shape.
The way light interacts with these facets affects
a diamond's brilliance and sparkle.
Fancy shapes
Any diamond shape other than round e.g.
marquise, square, emerald, oval, heart and pear.
Feather
A feather is a type of inclusion or flaw within
a diamond. It is described often as a small crack,
fissure or gletz.
Finish
The word finish is used to describe the exterior
of the diamond. If a diamond is well polished,
it has a very good finish.
Fire
Often a term used instead of dispersion,
it is the variety and intensity of rainbow colors
seen when light is reflected from a diamond.
Flat-top setting
Like the Gypsy setting, this setting has a band
that is one continuous piece that gets thicker
at the top. A flat-top setting grows broader at
the top so that a faceted stone can be inserted
into the ring at the broadest part. The stone
is held in place by metal chips attached at the
stones girdle.
Fluorescence
When exposed to ultraviolet light, a diamond may
exhibit a more whitish, yellowish or bluish tint,
which may imply that the diamond has a property
called fluorescence. The untrained eye can rarely
see the effects of fluorescence. Diamond grading
reports often state whether a diamond has fluorescent
properties. Fluorescence is not considered a grading
factor, only a characteristic of that particular
diamond.
Girdle
The girdle is the outermost edge of the diamond
between the crown and the pavilion.
Growth or grain lines
These can be considered internal flaws, and can
often be seen only by rotating the diamond very
slowly. They can appear and disappear almost instantaneously.
They appear as small lines or planes within the
diamond.
Gypsy setting
The Gypsy setting is predominantly used for mens
jewelry. The band is one continuous piece that
gets thicker at the top. The top is dome shaped
and the stone is inserted in the middle.
Illusion setting
This setting is more intricate than others in
that it surrounds the stone to make it appear
larger. The metal that surrounds the stone usually
has an interesting design.
Inclusions
Often referred to as "natures fingerprints,"
these are internal imperfections within most diamonds.
They are what makes a diamond so unique, as a
fingerprint does for a person. These birthmarks
are measured on a scale of perfection known as
clarity. Some common names of inclusions include
cloud, crystal, pinpoint, and feather. The position
of inclusions can affect the clarity of a diamond
and therefore the value.
Marquise shape
A boat-shaped diamond that is long and thin with
gently curved sides that come to a point on either
end. Marquise is part of the brilliant-cut family.
Mixed-cut
This cut has both step-cut and brilliant-cut facets.
Mixed cuts combine the beauty of the emerald cut
with the sparkle of the brilliant cut.
Pavilion
Bottom portion of the stone, under the girdle,
measuring to the culet.
Pinpoint
A pinpoint is a small dot, which is an inclusion
within a diamond. A gathering of pinpoints is
called a "cluster" or "cloud."
A cloud or cluster can appear as a hazy area in
the diamond.
Polish
Indicates the care taken by the cutter in shaping
and facetting the rough stone into a finished
and polished diamond.
Poor cut
Cut refers to the angles and proportions a skilled
craftsman creates in transforming a rough diamond
into a finished diamond. A poorly cut diamond
can be either cut too deep or too shallow. A deep
or shallow cut diamond will lose or leak light
through the side or bottom. This results in less
brilliance and value.
Princess cut
A square or sometimes rectangular-shaped modified
brilliant-cut diamond.
Prong or claw setting
It consists of four or six claws that cradle the
diamond. Because this setting allows the maximum
amount of light to enter a stone from all angles,
it sometimes can make a diamond appear larger
and more brilliant than its actual weight. This
setting can also hold larger diamonds more securely.
Proportion
The proportions of a diamond are very important,
so that the maximum amount of light be reflected
off and out of a stone. Proportion is the relationship
between the angles of the facets of the crown
and pavillion.
Radiant cut
A rectangular or square shaped diamond with step-cut
and scissor-cut on the crown and a brilliant-cut
on the pavilion.
Scintillation
When light reflects from a diamond, the sparkling
flashes that come from the facets of the gem are
known as scintillation.
Shallow cut
Cut refers to the angles and proportions a skilled
craftsman creates in transforming a rough diamond
into a finished diamond. When a diamond is cut
too shallow, it will lose or leak light through
the side or bottom. This results in less brilliance
and value.
Shape
Shape refers to form or appearance of a diamond
- i.e. whether the diamond is round, triangular,
square, marquise, pear, oval or heart-shaped.
Step-cut
The step cut has rows of facets that resemble
the steps of a staircase. The emerald cut and
the baguette are examples of the step cut.
Symmetry
A diamond's symmetry is the arrangement of the
facets and finished angles, created by the diamond
cutter. Excellent symmetry of a well-cut and well-proportioned
diamond can have a great effect on the diamond's
brilliance and fire. Grading reports will often
state the diamond's symmetry in terms Excellent,
Very good, Good, Fair, or Poor.
Table facet
This is the largest facet of a diamond. It is
located on the top of the diamond. The table facet
is sometimes referred to as the face.
Table spread
Term used to describe the width of the table facet,
often expressed as a percentage of the total width
of the stone.
Tension setting
A tension-set diamond is held in place by the
pressure of the bands metal, which is designed
to squeeze the stone.
Tolkowsky, Marcel
In 1919 Marcel Tolkowsky calculated the best theoretical
compromise for the cut of a diamond to release
the most beauty. The width of the table facet
was found to be 53% of the total width of the
stone, with a pavilion angle of 40 degrees and
45 degrees. The Tolkowsky cut provides the basis
for the modern American cut.
Trillion shape
Is a triangular-shaped diamond with 50 facets.
Trillions are commonly used as side.
Well cut
Well cut proportions ensure the maximum compromise
between fire and brilliance. When light enters
a properly cut diamond, it is reflected from facet
to facet, and then back up through the top, exhibiting
maximum brilliance, fire and sparkle.
|